Essence of seduction

It’s not often a bloody great baboon crashes a wine tasting – but that’s precisely what happened at Klein Constantia two days ahead of the 2017 Cape Wine Auction.

Klein Constantia and Paul Cluver Wines of Elgin joined forces to present philanthropic bidders with the opportunity of buying some of the world’s most iconic and sought after sweet wines. Appropriately dubbed the Sweetheart Lot, the one-of-a-kind collection ultimately raised R700 000 for the Auction’s worthy beneficiaries.

Two days ahead of the auction, a select group of tasters were invited to Klein Constantia’s beautifully restored manor house to join MD Hans Astrom, winemaker Matt Day, Paul Cluver and winemaker Andries Burger along with Pierre Lurton of Chateau d’Yquem (and Cheval Blanc) and László Mészáros of Disznóko, a fabled Tokaj producer from Hungary. On the table were 2012 vintages of both Cluver and Vin de Constance, along with a 2005 Chateau d’Yquem and Disznóko Kapi vineyard 6 puttonyos 2005.

From left, Paul Cluver, Hans Astrom, Pierre Lurton and László Mészáros
 

The Auction lot comprised these wines and a host more – a case of Riesling from Mosel producer Dr Loosen; from California a case of Phelps Vineyards’ Eisrebe and another of Dolce noble late harvest; from the Symington family of Portugal a case of Graham’s 2000 vintage port; a case of Bernkasteler Doctor 2014 Riesling Auslese; just a single bottle of Egon Muller’s Scharzhofberger TBA and three 375ml bottles of Disznóko Tokaji Eszencia 2005.

Being a natural sweet muscat, the Vin de Constance, stood out from the other three botrytis influenced wines. Winemaker Matt Day revealed that the 2012 vintage had required 25 different batches and three full months of harvesting in multiple passes through the vineyards – and he finished harvesting just two days shy of his wedding!

Since 2010, the Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling noble late harvest has been awarded the top sweet wine prize for South Africa at the Decanter World Wine Awards – and Paul Cluver admits to being humbled that when he took over from his neurosurgeon father he was of the opinion that all the estate’s Riesling should be grubbed up! Now they’re extending plantings…

As a consultant to Morgenster Lurton is a regular visitor to South Africa and said he was honoured to be included in the auction lot alongside Cluver and Vin de Constance. With regard to the 2005 vintage, he said it had been an outstanding one in Bordeaux with conditions ideal for the development of botrytis on Chateau d’Yquem’s Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. “Most important for me is the acidity,” he said. The intention was always to “make a fresh wine with sweetness” and fresh acidity was a notable element of this beautifully poised wine.

In contrast, Hungarian vintner László Mészáros of Disznóko had only set foot on South African soil 24 hours earlier – and would only be in the country for another three days! Nonetheless, he was well aware of South Africa’s proficiency and reputation for sweet wines, having tried them at international tastings and trade shows. “But I think I need to come back and spend a bit more time here – it looks like such a beautiful country!” 

Nectar of the gods: Disznóko's László Mészáros with a precious bottle of 2010 Tokaj Eszencia

Mészáros spoke of Tokaj’s long history and modern renaissance post 1990. Like Klein Constantia and d’Yquem, multiple passes are made through the Furmint vineyards which are on volcanic soils. Kapi is a single vineyard and is only made when the grapes are – in his words – “perfect and express the unique Kapi personality”. This high standard has been met just three times in the past 20 years: 1999, 2005 and 2011. He said skin maceration was important to Tokaj because the structure it imparted was necessary. “We want a wine made almost like a red wine.” 

With the tasting over and guests drifting off to their cars, two wild rogue male baboons cantered nonchalantly across the lawns in front of the Klein Constantia manor house, just metres away from the patio.

The tasting lineup, from left, Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling noble late harvest 2012, Chateau d'Yquem 2005, Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2012 and Disznóko Kapi vineyard 6 puttonyos 2005.

Both Mészáros and Lurton were initially speechless – but the former soon turned around and asked if this sort of thing happened all the time! Fortunately Day was able to reassure him that it didn’t – just as winemaking staff roared up on motorcycles, chasing the baboons back up the mountain.

Mészáros was moved to then open a bonus bottle of Disznóko, something seldom seen in South Africa: Eszencia. Truly special, he said that they were lucky to get possibly between one and six litres of juice per 100kg of grapes! The residual sugar levels are enough to induce diabetic coma at around 700 to 800g per litre – but with unbelievable acidity to balance it, the wine never falters. It was slightly syrupy in texture but pure, complex, fresh and lively and amazingly long-lived in the mouth.

I’m eternally grateful to those baboons for crashing the tasting and giving Mészáros a taste of Africa!

-Fiona McDonald