In the pink
Once the vacuous young thing in pink petticoats, rosé has now acquired an altogether more serious, quality-oriented image. Dry rosés, a brush of oak make up, even age adding a note of interest, all enhance this more sophisticated image.
Pink Cap Classique is possibly viewed in a more frivolous light. Yet quality rosé Cap Classique is as much of a challenge as any other style, as Graham Beck’s Pieter Ferreira, kindly explained.
Starting with the varieties, I wondered whether pinot noir alone or with chardonnay produces better quality.
‘This is a stylistic question and a good one to debate.’ Pieter’s answer already indicates there’s more to pink fizz than the varieties themselves.
‘Ideally 100% Pinot Noir for me; it is definitely the key to a good rosé. Selection of the right Pinot Noir components will give a complex, rich and spicy style and if done well, it will provide the ultimate expression. Using some chardonnay brings a little more acidity, but can dilute the more elegant colour tones.
Speaking of colour, does saigné - bleeding the colour off the red grape skins - or adding red wine give the better result? And what difference does each make? My question surmises there are two options only; Pieter suggests there’s a third and one he likes. “It is an enzymatic skin contact prior to pressing. By this I mean you hold the harvested, whole-bunch pinot noir for at least two to three hours prior to pressing. In this way you get extremely elegant extraction of pinot flavours and some colour, the base to your rosé’s natural colour. Otherwise, saigné to me is a better option. After one to three days on the skins, there’s less phenolic structure with more finesse. Remember red wine is normally full bodied and tannic; the bubble acts as an amplifier, which could show up bitterness and a coarse bubble. How to achieve colour is one issue, what shade of pink is quite another. “Salmon pink or ‘oeil de perdrix’, eye of the partridge, the so-called Provencal colour,’ is Pieter’s immediate response. It reflects more elegance and finesse. Remember we eat and drink with our eyes. The colour must fall softly on the eye.”
What about other quality issues with making rosé that are different from other Cap Classiques?
Different geographical areas provide different flavour profiles: Robertson - light strawberry; Stellenbosch - red berry; Darling - brightness and sour cherries and so on. Then, pinot needs to be picked a little riper - an average of 19 to 19,5 Balling - to express its characteristics. Fermentation in stainless steel or amphora is best; Pieter explains ‘it’s never done well in oak for me.’
Then, perhaps the most important question of all; what dishes best complement rosé? Of course, there is no one answer.
Sometimes Cap Classique will be the hero, others it’ll be food. There is no right or wrong anymore. For younger rosé, fresh salmon or sushi (and party time!) will be a perfect combo. With older wines, something more complex; for instance, wild mushroom risotto, and why not ask your butcher for a thick slice of your favourite meat cut, cooked rare over the fire and served with a reduced bone marrow glaze and some potato gratin. For dessert, what’s more delicious than Pavlova with fresh berries, whipped cream and rosé. Happy holidays!!!
Rosé Cap Classique sounds like a whole lot of serious fun!
Blog by Angela Lloyd