South African Wine Legend: Ina Smith
“My dear, chenin is my life,” says Ina Smith in her characteristic disarming way. “If you just look around this room, chenin brings good people together.” Cavalli’s restaurant is indeed abuzz with wine trade, media and team members from the sponsors at the Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Top Ten Challenge awards lunch.
Tannie Ina, as she is fondly known, is the driving force behind The Chenin Blanc Association, an organisation formed to promote the Cape’s most widely planted grape with the Top Ten Challenge as its supernova. The competition was launched in 2014 in a bid to identify and reward the top chenins in South Africa. Though it does much more than that.
Since inception it has been crucial touch point that the association gives back to the community. In recognition of the vital role that the farm workers play in the production process a cash prize is awarded to each winning producer with the dispensation that the funds are spent on projects to uplift farm workers, their families and their communities.
“We are so proud that priority that has been given to education,” shares Ina. “From aftercare facilities to computer rooms and other educational resources for learners, workers and communities.”
Hailing from Pietermaritzburg, Ina says she comes from a ‘small but loving family’. Initially she wanted to be a teacher but found herself working at insurance company Sanlam, ‘just because my brother started working there too’.
“I had a great career at Sanlam with many wonderful opportunities,” she underscores. “I was in many cases the only woman in the management teams. In the end I stayed on for 30 years, and was in a senior management position when I had the opportunity to retire at the age of 50.”
“I didn’t know where my life would take me next. I just decided to retire early. And then this happened,” she says laughing.
It was travel that lit the chenin flame for Ina. A confirmed Francophile she began making pilgrimages to the Loire in the late nineties. One anecdote in particular stands out for her when she was coming back from one of her ‘many trips to France’. On arrival at Charles de Gaulle she discovered her flight was delayed, only for it to be upgraded the next day to business class. “That also included a number of producers who had just visited Vinexpo, Bordeaux, and so the conversation and the champagne flowed freely amongst us! I also sat next to Irina von Holdt CWM – and that’s when I really started to get interested in chenin. The very next day she signed up to the Cape Wine Academy.
Ina has now also been in the wine trade for 22 years, initially taking the position at Platter’s Wine Guide as the tasting co-ordinator, she cites editor Philip van Zyl as a big influence on her: ‘I’m inspired by his work etiquette and professionalism’. Cathy van Zyl MW too gets a nod: “she’s an absolute rock star and always has a ‘how can I help attitude’.”
After a period of eight years in 2009 she took up the mantle of manager at The Chenin Blanc Association, while also working for Mr Chenin himself, Ken Forrester as his personal assistant.
Earlier while delivering his address to the crowd at the awards lunch the chairman of the Chenin Association, Forrester pointed across the room at Ina and said: “If you want to know what passion looks like, just take a look at Ina.”
The pair have a long, collaborative history of working together. “Ken is very patient with me and is always there for me if I need anything. He always has creative suggestions and ideas and is incredibly generous.”
The robust and active nature of The Chenin Blanc Association is proof of their fruitful symbiosis.
“We have 150 members, and they're all just wonderful,” Ina enthuses a glass of the golden stuff in-hand. “It’s great to work with people that appreciate what you're doing. Chenin is love, it’s friendship; it brings people together, and really makes life worthwhile.”
Ina is involved in all aspects of chenin appreciation including keeping abreast of research to feed to the association’s members. She credits Dr Hélène Nieuwoudt, a senior researcher at the Institute for Wine Biotechnology at Stellenbosch University as ‘our chenin research angel’.
Currently on the go is the bi-lateral ‘South African /France Genetic Research Study for Chenin Blanc Clones’. “This project has the dual aim to study the accumulated somatic differences associated with altered phenotypic traits in South African Chenin Blanc clones, and to develop a genetic test to reliably discriminate these clones,” Ina explains. Another exciting project in the works is creating Xhosa, Shona and Zulu chenin aroma wheels.
Why the love for chenin? “It’s versatility! Not all Chenin Blancs are created alike… the styles range from dry and fresh, to riper and full bodied to sweet, and also to sparkling. Chenin also has many signature aromas and flavours that set it apart from all other varieties. Even entry-level examples can have remarkable complexity.”
It’s this passion and commitment that has seen her land her latest chenin coup. The first International Chenin Blanc Congress, which brought together the two largest chenin regions in the world, South Africa and the Loire took place in Angers in 2019, and now Ina has brought the multidisciplinary conference home.
The International Chenin Blanc Congress 2022 takes place from 1 to 3 November in Stellenbosch, South Africa. “It will be a meeting of academics, wine producers, viticulturists, wine tourism operators, wine writers, sommeliers, trade and influencers, who will explore, taste, debate, network and also enjoy the unique expressions of chenin blanc from around the world while doing so,” elaborates Ina. “Expect cutting edge research presentations, technical tastings, engaging vineyard tours and unique wine and food experiences.”
Occasionally though when she does rest you’ll find her at her home in Strand, next to the ocean in a home filled with books. “The little free time I have on weekends I spend with my mom, she’s 90!, my brother and a few very good friends. “I love to read cookery and travel books, and when I have the chance a good meal with good chenin!”
France is her other big passion, “I have travelled there almost 30 times… by now I think I know Paris better than I do Cape Town,” she says laughing.
Words to live by? “Trust your instincts and treat others the way you want to be treated.”
The Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Top 10 Challenge winners, listed alphabetically, are:
• Alvi’s Drift Private Cellar 221 Chenin Blanc 2021
• Kaapzicht Wine Estate Kliprug Chenin Blanc 2021
• Nabygelegen Private Cellar Chenin Blanc 2021
• Piekenierskloof Wine Company Bergendal Chenin Blanc Old Vine 2021
• Rascallion Devonian Chenin Blanc 2021
• Rijk’s Cellar Touch Chenin Blanc 2020
• Spier Wines Seaward Chenin Blanc 2021
• Stellenbosch Vineyards Bushvine Chenin Blanc 2021
• Stellenrust Wine Estate Stellenbosch Manor Fermented Chenin Blanc 2020
• Stellenrust Wine Estate Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2021
- Blog by Malu Lambert