End of an era

Monday, July 26th, 2010

**(*) Stein Steen-based blend, semi-sweet, clean plain drinking. One of South Africa’s biggest selling wines; in top four, beside Bellingham Johannisberger, Nederburg Stein and Graça. Has 16gms/l sugar.

That vinous shorthand was what John Platter wrote about Grünberger Stein in the 1990 issue of his eponymous guide. The 2010 version of the same guide states the following: “Stein ** Gently rounded 08 blend Chenin & 10% sauv, ripe & waxy.”

How sad then, to find that this wine – once a massive seller in South Africa as evidenced by its top four status 20 years ago – is no longer made! I cut my teeth on this wine – so early I don’t even remember how old I was… My folks weren’t big drinkers, but in the ’70s when they had the occasional dinner party I can distinctly recall that rounded green bocksbeutel sitting on the table. I recall  it well since it was quite a thing being allowed a sip out of mum’s glass!

Grünberger Stein was such a rock solid stand-by. It appealed to a range of tastes, it wasn’t fancy or pretentious, nor was it trying to be anything other than “clean plain drinking”, as Mr Platter wrote. It goes without saying that Distell have obviously culled this wine from the range because of its performance on the shelf – or lack thereof. Come to think of it, I’m part of the problem, not having drunk a glass of Grünberger Stein or ordered a bottle of it in a restaurant in easily 15 years!

As Bob Dylan sang, “times, they are a-changing”… and with changing times come changing fashions and tastes in wine. I’m sorry to see it go – and apologise for my role in its demise.