International feedback
Thursday, May 19th, 2011
Last week’s feedback session from the judges who participated in the annual Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show was particularly interesting because two of the three international judges were first-timers to South Africa.
Neither Thierry Desseauve, co-founder with Michel Bettane of the highly influential publication La Revue du Vin de France, and Neal Martin, the Master of Wine who is tasked with reporting on South Africa’s fortunes for the even more influential Wine Advocate started by Robert Parker.
Desseauve admitted that not having set foot in SA vineyards was “almost a professional fault” but that he was well acquainted with local wines. “South African wines have a definite sense of personality – a sense of straddling both the Old World and the New World,” was his comment. Overall impressions? Shiraz is good. “There are some blockbusters with too much residual sugar and alcohol but the wines which won gold medals are excellent – strong but elegant and balanced.”
Two other things stood out for him – the gold medal-winning Pinot Noir. “I did not think South Africa was capable of making such a vibrant, elegant Pinot Noir!” and the Muscat class. The muscadels and sweet wines on display were a revelation – both the entries in the museum class and the modern examples. His final word was on Pinotage: “Be proud of it.” His advice was to consider the fact that wine is generally consumed with food – and finding a good food match for Pinotage would go a long way to making a more positive case for it abroad.
Neal Martin is very aware of how closely his moves are being monitored by the SA industry – and internationally too. “When it was announced that I’d be covering South Africa some of my wine writing colleagues said they were sorry to hear it and asked me what I’d done wrong!” was his quip. He’d been approached for comment by numerous wine writers ahead of his visit and delayed responding until he’d had a chance to see the country for himself and gain a first-hand impression.
The day before the Trophy show judging began all the judges participated in a tasting of older South African wines – one of which, in his own words, blew him away and completely changed his perception. “It was a 1961 Pinotage – from Lanzerac I believe. I would love to see that wine put up against other 1961 vintages from France because it would show exceptionally well.” Martin’s point was that he had no idea South Africa was capable of making wines that aged with distinction and also that Pinotage was capable of such quality. ” If you’d have told me a few weeks ago that a South African Pinotage could age 50 years and still taste amazing, I’d have laughed at you. And I think a lot of other wine writers don’t know this either. I would love to see these sort of wines being shown to influential critics overseas. It would change a lot of perceptions.”
He likened Pinotage to the British affection for fish & chips. “We know it’s never going to be haute cuisine, but we love it anyway.” A few things which stood out for him: Chardonnay was really impressive – two in particular he described as “World class –when I smelled them I knew already and the palate confirmed it.” Bordeaux blends: “I wasn’t comparing them to First Growths – but then they don’t cost as much as Bordeaux. One criticism I had was that all the elements were there – fruit purity, elegance, balance – but I just felt they lacked a bit of freshness on the end. That, for me, is what separates having a glass of wine and finishing the bottle – that freshness that keeps you going back for more.”
His summation was that the time is ripe to do a comprehensive report on South African wines for the Wine Advocate, reflecting the changed dynamic. “Nothing gives me greater pleasure than finding good wines. I think there are some undiscovered gems here and I’m happy to play my part in telling the world about them.”