Old vines

Wednesday, July 24th, 2013

There is an increasing realisation that the South African wine industry’s old vineyards can play a crucial role in differentiating it from its competitors in the global market place.  Leading viticulturist Rosa Kruger has been working on an informal project to list all vineyards over 35 years old and says she has now identified around 350 which qualify. There are apparently 4 700 ha of vineyard over 30 years old out of a total of some 100 000 ha according to non-profit industry body SAWIS (South African Wine Industry Information & Systems).

But do old vines really make a difference when it comes to the quality of the final wine or is just a romantic notion that in reality doesn’t amount to much? Eben Sadie, one of South Africa’s most celebrated winemakers of the modern era, has a range called simply ‘Die Ouwingerdreeks’ (The Old Vine Series) including Skerpioen, from  a field blend of Chenin Blanc and Palomino planted between 1958 and 1967, Skurfberg from Chenin Blanc planted between 1940 and 1955, ‘T Voetpad 2011 from a field blend of Muscat d’Alexandrie, Semillon Blanc, Semillon Girs, Palomino and Chenin Blanc planted between 1900 and 1928, Kokerboom from Semillon and Semillon Gris planted in the 1930s, Mev. Kirsten from Chenin Blanc planted between 1905 and 1920, Pofadder from Cinsaut planted in 1976, Soldaat from Grenache planted in 1958 and Treinspoor from Tinta Barocca planted in 1974.

“Great wine can originate from many different realities,” says Sadie, “but old vines definitely make it easier.” He points out that a young vineyard needs a lot of “tutoring” – the vines are busy establishing their root systems and canopies with the consequence that vigour is highly changeable from year to year. The grower, in turn, is compelled to make substantial interventions and this brings human shortcomings more to the fore. Not so with old vines which are much more in equilibrium.

“If you’re setting out to make high-end wines, then you obviously want to work with the material that’s going to give you the goods. I ’m expecting wine consumers to make a significant investment in my odyssey and accessing old vines is by far the most sensible, professional way to achieve that.”

Sadie further points out that he feels no obligation to own any of the vineyards he works with outright. “People are obsessed with ownership – but you must be happy to make top wine out of vineyard that might not be yours. I have all sorts of relationship requirements when it comes to making wine – with nature, with the grower and with the end purchaser.” Where Sadie leads, others tend to follow and wines from old vines seem set to feature prominently in the future.

– Christian Eedes